For the Dough: Combine the warmed milk with the yeast in a small bowl. Cover, and allow the mixture to sit 5-7 minutes in a warm place, until foamy.
While the yeast is developing, melt the butter over medium-low heat and allow it to cool slightly. In the bowl of an electric mixer, using the paddle attachment, combine flour, sugars, salt and Kashmiri Garam Masala. Add 3 tablespoons of the melted butter, yeast-milk mixture, pumpkin and egg. Mix until just combined. Change the attachment from paddle to dough hook and run on low speed for 5 minutes.
Transfer the mixture into a large oiled bowl and cover. Allow to rise for 1 hour in a warm place; the volume of the dough will nearly double. While the dough is rising, prepare your pans and assemble the filling. For the pans, line two 9-inch round cake pans with parchment paper. Butter the sides of the pan and the paper.
For the Filling: Stir the ingredients together in a small bowl, and set aside.
For the Rolls: When the hour is up, transfer the dough onto a well floured surface and flour the top as well. Roll the dough out into a rectangle, about 11"x16" and brush the top with the remaining 3 tablespoons melted butter. Then spread the filling evenly over the top. It will seem like a lot of sugar. It is. Trust me, just do it.
Roll the dough into a tight spiral, starting with the long edge. Some stuff will fall out, and that's okay. This is not a tidy process. It all ends up in the pan one way or another.
Cut the spiral into 1" slices with a heavy serrated knife using a back & forth motion but no downward pressure at all. Let the weight of the knife do the work and there will be less tearing. Try to keep the slices uniform and no wider than an inch. If you cut them too thick it is hard to get them done in the middle without overcooking the top and bottom.
Place the rolls into the pan so they are touching but not overly tight. I included the cut off tips of the spiral in the pan so every gram could get into the oven.Top them off with the sugar that has fallen out of the rolls during assembly. Cover the pans with plastic and allow to rise again, about 45 minutes more.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. After the rising time is up, bake the rolls for 25 minutes, until the smell is irresistible.
For the Glaze: In the bowl of an electric mixer, beat the cream cheese until it is light and fluffy. Continue mixing, and add the powdered sugar, buttermilk and maple syrup. The glaze should be thin enough to brush on. You can thin it by adding more buttermilk one teaspoon at a time to achieve the desired consistency.
Brush the glaze on warm rolls right out of the oven and stand back for the stampede.
Notes: If you'd like to make ahead, refrigerate the rolls in the pan after the second rising and bake them the next morning. Remove from the refrigerator one hour before baking.
